Film Recorder Service

Dr Virago Pete's Film Recording Recorder Service

I am pleased to own a Lasergraphics film recorder which has the following capabilities

1. 2k resolution 2048 x 1365

2. 4k resolution 4096 x 2731

3. 8k resolution 8192 x 5461

Recently (September/2011) I have acquired a bulk film recorder which can accept 100ft rolls of 35mm film. It records the frames in standard 35mm format meaning- just like your standard SLR camera does - horizontally. Each frame is 8 sprocket holes long. This is commonly known as VistaVision (I am not affiliated with VistaVision in any way) frame size.

Note that "sprocket hole" and perf (perforation) mean the same thing.

The following image is horizontal 8-perf (count the sprocket holes)

The movie industry uses horizontal frames commonly called "VistaVision" for portions of the film which require very high-resolution computer generated graphics.

1. Titles

2. Special effects

3. Some films are entirely done on CGI (computer graphics)

I'm a newcomer in the special effects for film area. My experience in video and film transfers and even 35mm professional calibration slides and video creation for my educational cds- is only a portion of the talents I have.

As all things- there is a first time for everything. I would like to earn my first few customers for the movie industry. I can produce 2k frames 4k frames and 8k frames. I don't claim to have the fastest machine on the market. What I can do for you is provide a low price and excellent quality frames.

Some features about my equipment

A Lasergraphics LFR Mark III film recorder

B Double M Industries M-150-LAS bulk film recorder

C Winrascol software in Windows 98 (high end PC running a fast processor)

Sample of 10 frames

A 2k resolution 10 frames in 5 minutes (30 seconds per frame approx)

B 4k resolution 10 frames in 10 minutes (1 minute per frame)

C 8k resolution 10 frames in 25 minutes (2.5 minutes per frame)

Facts

100ft roll contains approx 65 sprocket holes per ft

8 frames per foot

many projectors run at 24 frames per second (23.XXX but it is rounded)

Math#1

100ft roll of film x 65 sprocket holes per foot = 6500 sprocket holes per 100ft roll

Math#2 (estimated

6500 sprocket holes per 100 ft roll / divided by 8 sprocket holes per frame= 812.5 frames per 100ft roll

Math #3 (estimated running time per 100ft roll on a projector)

812.5 frames per roll / divided by 24frames per second = 33 seconds of running film

Math #4 (estimated time to complete a job at 2k,4k, 8k res)

812.5 frames per roll x multiplied by by 2.5 minutes per frame (at 8k resolution) = 2031.25 minutes (33 hours)

812.5 frames per roll x multiplied by 1 minute per frame (at 4k resolution) = 812.5 minutes (13.55 hours)

812.5 frames per roll x multiplied x .5 minutes per frame (at 4k resolution) = 406.25 minutes (6.77 hours)

You should consider that the roll may work or it may not work or may have errors on my part as I'm learning. There are plenty of cheap bulk 100ft rolls of 35mm film on big-auction-site (nameless) for say $50 to $100 bucks per roll. Plus you'll need to get that developed on your own or through a film developing facility.

I'm willing to work with you for cheap so I can learn how to do things. Working with cinema film is the next stage in my personal growth and experience.

Let me know if you have a project that you need transferred to 35mm in horizontal format. This means that when you go to transfer it to standard 35mm cinema formats- (half frame 35mm Vertical is standard for the movie industry) you'll need to use a system which can transfer "VistaVision" to SMPTE standard formats (I am not affiliated with SMPTE or VistaVision in any way).

Why couldn't I put 2 sideways images onto 1 frame separating them with a white band- thus creating a vertical standard 35mm cinema film. A directory full of individual frames could be put into anther directory full of completed frames using Photoshop's "automate" feature. Rotation and placement of the frame at the left and right side leaving a gap in between that is the correct space between frames. That would give you a standard vertical picture and half frame. I'm thrilled to have the ability to create 812.5 frames per roll of 100ft film. I believe it will open some doors for me to gain some professional experience. 30 seconds is enough for most movie scenes containing special effects or titles. Multiple 100ft reels can be professionally spliced (I don't have any splicing equipment for 35mm (I have tons of equipment for 16mm and 8mm and Super8)

I have samples of my Lasergraphics output in 35mm slide format.

If you need a sample 35mm slide make sure you specifically request one from my batch of oversized frames which demonstrate the full picture area getting as close to the sprocket holes as possible. Note that these slides are not created on my bulk film camera. It will demonstrate the color and clarity and resolution only as recorded by the standard 35mm camera back capable of 36 frames of standard consumer 35mm film.

I finally found/bought my Bulk film camera which I have been looking for forever and ever. I got it finally. I can't find ANY references to it on the web. My hunch is very few were made of this Double M bulk film camera model M-150-LAS. I'm glad to have it- and would like to put it to use. The Lasergraphics LFR Mark III produces stunning picture quality. My film recorder is pristine and beautiful with all drivers and software etc. Most Big-online-auction-site (nameless) film recorders are missing this and that- basically doorstops without the software. The bulk filmback camera- I've been looking for it for years and never came up on those auction sites or in any reference to it on websites etc.

Well since the Lasergraphics LFR Mark III gets the picture very close to the sprocket holes- is it possible to put the Optical sound stripes as part of the image? I think IT IS possible to print it as part of the image or at least leave that area black in your image so you can go back and re-expose the film through a machine which puts the soundtrack on. Putting the sound track in as part of the image has the disadvantage of having a small space between the frames- what would that do to the soundtrack is unknown. I believe the best way to add an optical sound track is to first produce the images on film. Then before developing the film - run it through an optical sound camera which will create the soundtrack on film. I do not have a machine to put sound strip(s) on the film. When crating the images - you may want to leave a black agea on the portion of the image where the sound stripe will be. Many CGI films are created in VistaVision and leave no space for the optical sound- this is to maximize the picture area and detail. My view- it is your film - make the images the way you want it and I will transfer your images to film. I will transfer 812 images. If you want to have each image really imitating  multiple frames or perfs- or soundtrack black space - or some other film size by putting a white border around the image. I still print in Vistavision and whatever the 812 individual frames contain- I still print it the same using the film recorder. I hope I have explained that fluently enough to be understood. You can get creative within each Vistavision image. You can make it negative or positive - make it an intermediate or negative or make it ready-to-go.

If you have a bulk filmback for Polaroid or Bulk film camera for Lasergraphics - I'm interested in buying it.

Let me know what I can do for you. I'm just a one-man-shop DIY handy computer literate mechanically inclined person. I've watched all of the youtube videos, websites, I can. I have a pretty good grasp of the files and formats and conversions etc. I am ONLY PC literate- but very very PC literate. I love the Apple IIe / IIc (I have several for printing on 35mm slides using a Seary slide printer and I have 2 Rhino Robotic Arms powered by Apple IIe and I can program in Apple basic and PC basic extremely fluently I love PCs just as much) but that is the extent of my Apple experience.

My Film Recorder Takes the Following File Formats

I have no way to use MOV files for film recordering. I have no way of using AVI files for film recording. I need a series of numbered image files in a directory/folder

1. TIF

2. JPG or JPEG

3. etc common image formats

Resize your images to be

1. For 2k resolution resize it to 2048 x 1365

2. For 4k resolution resize it to 4096 x 2731

3. For 8k resolution resize it to 8192 x 5461

I am willing to expose partial rolls for test purposes- for example lets say you don't want to expend a 100ft roll- you can send me leader- which has a short section of 35mm film spliced in. See how creative I am? Through trial and error - the proper film placement can be obtained. If you use 35mm camera regular film from the department store- that can be developed for a few bucks as a slide or negative. The short section of frames can be run through your 35mm projector to test for proper image placement within the frame.

For the person looking to have their profesional work output to films at a low cost- I'm willing to break into the industry from the ground up.

My Sample 35mm output is available as a 35mm 2x2 standard slide- call me for this sample. $15 covers the slide and postage. I'll show you what I can do.

So how much for transfering 812 images to film? How about free for now. My price will go up once I know how to do this and aquire experience in this endeavour. You provide the images and the 100ft roll of film. Will it be wasted? I don't know- Just being honest. Will you spend money getting it developed and then find out your frames are upside down or backwards? I don't know.

There is a learning curve to using all new equipment. I believe my equipment is from 1998 (Runs on Windows 98) and is in pristine beautiful condition.

Which film types will work on my film recorder?

1. EZ Fuji NPS 160

2. EZ Fuji NS 160

3. EZ Fuji Superia 100

4. EZ Kodak Gold 100

5. EZ Kodak Portra NC 160

6. EZ Kodak Portra VC 160

7. EZ Kodak Vericolor III

8. Fuji Digital Output Film

9. Fuji Provia 100

10. Fuji Provia 100F

11. Fuji Sensia II 100

12. Fuji SuperG 100

13. Kodak E100S

14. Kodak Electronic Output Film

15. Kodak Elite Chrome 100

16. Kodak Elite II 100

17. Kodak EPN 100

18. Kodak EPP 100

19. Kodak Rapid Process Copy

20. Kodak TMAX 100

21. Konica Sinra 100

The above is a standard list of films which are recordable on the Lasergraphics LFR Mark III. Each film type has unique characteristics (some films more blue-ish red-ish sensitive etc) which the software knows about and corrects for. In otherwords- if you were to compare two frames each of their own film brand/model- both different. The frame output would be identical. The film recorder makes an image on film which resembles very closely what you see on your good quality PC monitor. The film is not the issue as long as you choose a film on the list. Choosing a film which is not on the list will make the colors off (more pinkish or bluish or greenish etc.) as the software has color correction tables for each film type.

So my point is - choose a 100ft roll of film which is on my list. Whether you buy it brand new or a auction-site roll of film which is expired. That is up to you. You take a chance on old film (not a big chance as most old film looks fine although some particularly not-good-customers-for-me would complain at the top of their lungs in an open window from the second story. Most of it (old expired film) is still good unless it was stored badly.

An interesting feature about this Bulk film camera is that it has push button switches on the side. The whole camera is computer controlled and the software automatically advances the file etc. The switches on the side allow me to advance to the next frame manually. Another switch is for notching- this fires a pin at the film and punches a hole in between the sprocket hole. Notching is only done manually by pushing this button. The software does not automatically notch- thank goodness. The purpose of this notching is unknown to me (See I don't have cinema experience) and the hole is perfectly placed and does not go into the sprocket hole. It is midcenter. I would imagine this notching is for alignment or marking scenes or some other purpose. As a mechanically-proficient man- I see notching as damaging the film. Even though it works as designed and operates correctly. I can't see myself pressing this button or using this feature for my needs. If a customer requests it I can push this button to notch the film and put a small well placed tiny punched hole between sprocket holes.

I don't have any recommendations on where you can get the roll of 100ft film developed after I put images on it. You'll need to shop around for that.

I have read that many big-name films (nameless) containing special effects used film recorders which recorded frames horizontally like my equipment does. The main reason is frame size and detail. The larger the frame size the better the picture quality/detail when using an optical printer to make a copy. Having a big frame size on the original is the way the big-boys hollywood studios do it. When your files are recorded to film in my machine you'll need to find a studio which has an optical printer which can work with "VistaVision" film format.  I have included a picture of a vintage VistaVision camera- look at how the film magazines are horizontal- while "standard" movie cameras have the film magazine vertical.

The above picture is a camera I don't own, and have never used. It is a Fries / Mitchell camera which films in VistaVision. See the horizontal film magazine?

Can the image file you send me be anamorphic?

Sure why not. As long as it is one of the following

1. 2k resolution 2048 x 1365

2. 4k resolution 4096 x 2731

3. 8k resolution 8192 x 5461

then you will get the film frame exactly as you sent it. If you see a squashed frame on your PC monitor then you will get a squashed film frame. Your anamorphic lens will unsquash it. Remember the WYSIWYG What You See Is What You Get which was way overquoted in the 80s but rarely heard since. Squash your images or stretch them as you wish. But the number of points across and number of points down needs to match my above specifications. If not the lasergraphics driver will automatically resize it and fill the full frame stretching horizontally and verticaly to fit. Or I can set it not to stretch. Manual placement is best. Photoshop or Photostyler PC software works well for resizing and rotating and more. If you want to experiment with putting two images on a frame each one sideways to see what you get no problem. I believe it can be done.

812 frames per 100ft roll of film is like having 5.6 slide carousels (144 slides per carousel) of 35mm slides - it's the same frame size. For those that have 88 slide carousels that would be 9.2 carousels. See I do 35mm slide to PC transfers also and know about that. That is a lifetime of picture taking for some people. Some people have tens of thousands of slides in their closet. But we're not talking about slides as the pictures are not cut. And their not mounted into paper or plastic slide 2x2 mounts. My point is the film is the same, and the frame size is the same as standard 35mm slides. You could always cut them and make slides out of them! Uncut we have Horizontal Cinema film.

What you send me and what you get back

1. You send me a 100ft bulk roll of film in a carefully protected package

2. Enclose the 812 images in a standard image format TIF JPG (DVD double layer holds 8.5GB or multiple DVDs at 4.7GB should work fine)

3. You get your film roll shipped back to you along with your DVD (you get everything back)

4. You pay for return shipping (under $20)

I would like to see the finished product so I can assess my work and learn from it.

All I ask is don't get mad at me as this is a new experience and the end result may be good or not. There's only one way to find out.

Lets see what this baby can do at 8k resolution.

Dr Virago Pete

telephone (847) 454-7858

email drviragopete@att.net

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